The bordermarkers of the Pyrenees : all my trips
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- monday 14 september 2020 -
Backpacking along 272-279 -> day 2: doing 275-279

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Summary: part of a series of 6 daytrips and 1 multiday trip in september 2020 in the Pyrénées Atlantiques. This is trip 7 - day 3

Today: from Lac de la Chourique continuing along the border until Refuge d'Arlet. After pictching my tent there, I make a 4h roundtrip to cover bm278 & 279.

Weather: splendid

track-20200914.kml
(click to open this trip in Google Earth or copy link to Google Maps; click right on this link to download gpx-version). The gps-track has not been manually  corrected which explains the inaccuracy and misalignment at some points. For cartographic backgrounds: see the cartography-page

Gps-waypoints of all bordermarkers (most recent version):
kml:  esfr-bordermarkers-all-waypoints.kml
gpx:  esfr-bordermarkers-all-waypoints.gpx (with elevation added by gpsvisualizer.com)
According to Garmin Basecamp (uncorrected track):

Distance: 23,1 km
Max-height: 2093m
Min-height:1743 m
Elevation: +1519m -1401m
Total elevation: 2920m

Start 9:01  Finish 19:58
Total time: 10:58
After a good night's sleep on the soft grass underground, I start at 9h.

From the Lac de la Chourique (or Ibon Acherito in Spanish), this is the route ahead to the ridge.


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Spotting chamois.


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Halfway up, cairns appear.


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Towards the ridge, it gets more rocky. The route is well waymarked with cairns.


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A last chamois observing me.


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A last view back to the Lac de la Chourique.


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This is approximately the waymarked route to the ridge.

There seems a more convenient 'pass' to the right:


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this one, but the cairns take me


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to this part of the ridge.


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At the ridge with this splendid view of the sunbathed mountainside and the route to bm275


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and to bm276.


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Cairns continue to


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lead me along the mountainside


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easily to Col de Laraille.


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Almost there.


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Bm275 is hardly noticeable on


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the rocks.


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Bm275, better to see with some chalking.


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Bm275


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Bm275


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Bm275


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Bm275, looking towards Col de Pau.


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Bm275, looking into France.


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These painted markers show the border of the Parc National des Pyrénées.


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Then descending and


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continuing along the hillside (and not descending to the bottom of the valley)


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on cattle tracks when available.

This picture: getting closer to Col de Pau


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and later on joining a red-white GR-trail.


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At Col de Pau, bm276 is about 15m to the S from the actual pass.


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Zoomin to bm276


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Waymarks.


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Refuge d'Arlet is at 2:15h walking.


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Bm276


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Bm276


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Bm276, looking back to the actual pass.


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Then further along the borderridge.

The Pic ahead involves some climbing at first.


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Waymarks not seen before: white-red-white.


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After the climbing


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the trail gets more horizontal. Col de la Cuarde comes in sight.


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It is a pleasure to walk on this trail in this marvellous weather.

This picture: in the valley to the right, you can spot a signboard.


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That is this signboard with bm277 in front of it.

This is Col de la Cuarde.


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A memorial plaque nearby


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commemorating the refugees who fled France in WOII.


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Col de la Cuarde


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Bm277


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Bm277


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Bm277


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Bm277

Time to take a lunch-break.


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Then going on with in the far distance


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Pic du Midi d'Ossau.


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Getting closer


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to Col de Saoubathou.
A new phenomenon: large white shepherd dogs who are nasty for walkers passing by.


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Now close to Col de Saoubathou.


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Col de Saoubathou


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Another stretch of easy trail,


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passing the Cabane de Lapassa (in the distance) and


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beyond the Cabane this signpost.

Descending into the valley will bring you to Borce and Etsaut.
That is how I will return to my car tomorrow.

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Continuing to a next sort of col.

Soon beyond the col ,


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you can spot the roof of the Refuge d'Arlet


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with Lac d'Arlet at his feet.


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The refuge with to the left the borderridge where bm278 can be found.


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But first I have to collect water at the lake.

I haven't encountered any stream along my route today, that is to say from Lac de la Chourique until Lac d'Arlet.


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Then I pitch my tent behind the refuge. That gives more privacy than on the bivouac-field besides the refuge.




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In the background on the ridge is Col d'Arlet with bm278.

With a much lighter backpack, I depart for a roundtrip to cover bm278 and 279. It will take me 4 hours from 16h to 20h.


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Climbing to bm278, looking back at refuge and lake.


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It's a short climb to Col d'Arlet, ± 15 minutes from the refuge. No waymarks but the route is very obvious.


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Almost at the Col, with a view back and


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a zoom-in to Pic du Midi d'Ossau.


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Bm278 is from the actual pass ± 35m to the NW on the ridge.


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Bm278


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Bm278 after chalking.


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Bm278, looking back to the actual pass 35m SE.


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Bm278


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Bm278, refuge d'Arlet and lake in the background.


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Then descending SE on the Spanish side along a waymarked trail.


The trail descends to the foot of the next valley climbing up to Col de la Contienda.




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At that point, the trail itself descends further bending W and you have to leave it here to climb


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SE uphill on the grassy hillside.

No trails, hardly any cairn but the direction is obvious with the Col in sight.


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It is tough climbing on the grass.

You have to find your own route towards the Col but that's no problem.


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Almost at the Col with


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bm279.

It took me 1,5 hours to get here from the Refuge d'Arlet.


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Bm279


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Bm279


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Bm279


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Bm279


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On the other side of the Col, descending on a well waymarked trail (with cairns)


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until this shepherd's compound.


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Looking back to Col de la Contienda.


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Beyond the cabane, I arrive at the end of the dirtroad with the two cars.

Two men are loading donkeys with cargo and they tell me


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that I can return to Refuge d'Arlet along a shortcut waymarked with these white poles.

I climb to a ridge


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and arrive at this valley with a cabane (Cabane des Caillaous).


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and join the waymarked trail towards the refuge.

I'm relieved because it's getting later and later.


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On well trails I proceed to the refuge (visible in the distance) and it's getting dark when I arrive at my tent.

The refuge's ward-lady rebukes me for not using the bivouac-field but so be it. Too late to change.

It takes me an hour to cook, wash myself, eat and brush my teeth. It's been a long day, perhaps too long but still I'm glad that I did the additional roundtrip along bm278-279.


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The next day I pack my tent in the rain but it gets dry soon. I descend in 4,5h (1500m descent) to Etsaut.

It's a beautiful and easy walk with much silence and already autumn colours. Lunch at a restaurant in Etsaut.

While enjoying my lunch, I hear
that this region has been declared suddenly to an 'orange' region by the Dutch government.

A further stay will mean 10 days quarantine when I return in Holland because of the covid-19-epidemic. But most of France is still 'yellow' so I can take my time to return home while spending already some days of my quarantine in the yellow regions.


After a day of rest in Lourdes (very quiet because of the epidemic), I drive 17/9 to the Dordogne for a visit to the caves of Lascaux and the shrine of Rocamadour.

On sunday 20/9 I drive back to home sweet home and obey as a well mannered citizen my few remaining days of quarantine.
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