The
bordermarkers of the Pyrenees : all my trips
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thursday 1 september
2022 -
Revisiting Hostal de la Muga and bm534-535
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Summary:
part of a series of 9 daytrips in august & september 2022 across
the Pyrenees. The main goal was to finish my plan to have visited all
bordermarkers at least twice. It was also a kind of sentimental farewell journey, visiting old friends and cherished places.
This is daytrip 7.
Today: a nostalgic visit to Hostal de la Muga and redoing bm534-535 as a bycatch
Weather: sunny, warm
Basecamp: camping Verte Rive in St-Laurent-de-Cerdans
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According to Garmin
Basecamp (uncorrected track with elevation added by Gpsvisualizer.com):
Distance: 5,8 km
Max-height: 833m
Min-height: 672m
Elevation: +351m -352m
Total elevation: 703m
Start 14:20 Finish 16:39
Total time: 2:19
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 | From the parking at Pla Castanyer, I descend along the dirtroad.
Keeping right at the first bifork.
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 | The sign says 'private dead-end road' but there also hiking waymarks: so nothing forbidden here.
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 | Descending and passing a house
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 | And this is about the end of the dirtroad, you could park here.
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 | A yellow waymark
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 | and this is the end of the dirtroad, arriving at a dry streambed which is the border between bm533 and 534.
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 | To the right is this gate which gives access to the streambed and
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 | then you arrive at the ruins of Hostal de la Muga.
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 | A donkey is curious.
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 | This is the barn
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 | and this is the old Hostal itself.
I received in 2014 from Cayetano some information about it:
"Hostal de la Muga which you find mysterious, closed its doors in january 1992. There was also a fountain but now it is dry. The roads leading to it are from the 70ties and before that they needed animals for transportation"
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 | Hostal de la Muga, the other side.
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And this is a picture of 19-4-2007. the first time I saw Hostal de la Muga.
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 | A big difference with 15 years ago is the abundance now of waymarked trails and waysign-posts
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 | like this one.
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 | And this is a peculiar waysign, looks as if it was meant for motorized traffic.
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 | This is the crossing of the Muga,
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 | Back and another view of Hostal de la Muga
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 | Hostal de la Muga with behind it on the hillside a band of rocks.
That is approximately the borderline.
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 | Now I descend towards La Muga with bm534.
In between this gate to a sort of compound of French houses and villa's.
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 | Bm534 at the other side of the Muga.
According
to information of Charles & Josette Darrieu, the original
bm534 was washed away by a flooding on 17 october 1940 and
replaced by this one.
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 | Bm534
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 | Bm534
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 | Bm534
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 | Bm534
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 | Then proceeding to bm535.
That implies a short steep climb about 10m beyond bm534 and
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 | arriving at a trail, sometimes vague but in general well to follow above the Muga.
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 | Bm535 is opposite a house on the other side of La Muga but it might be difficult to distinguish that building.
But I have a gps-waypoint (of course) and that's how I find bm535 after some descending.
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 | Bm535
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 | Bm535
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 | Bm535
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 | Bm535
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 | At the other side of the stream, we can see the remnants of a bridge .
This bridge was also washed away by a flooding on 17 october 1940 including the original bm535.
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 | Bm535
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 | I
return, try in vain a direct route to the dirtroad above (following the
same trail but blocked further on by the Muga and a rockwall) and
return via bm534.
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 | Climbing back to the Hostal, a last view back to bm534.
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 | Back at Hostal de la Muga
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 | It might be my last visit to this monument of the impermanence of all things and a selfie is appropiate, I think.
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 | And to finish my sentimental journey, this is the spot approximately where
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Jan-Willem Doomen and me camped on 3-4-2008.
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 | Now returning to the car, here crossing the dry streambed which is the border between bm533 and 534.
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 | A bit further up the road, there is a trail going uphill, including
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 | a waymark. It is the trail which will bring you to bm533 (if I remember well).
Back to the car and to the camping.
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