The bordermarkers of the Pyrenees : all my trips
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- thursday 1 september 2022 -
Revisiting Hostal de la Muga and bm534-535

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Summary: part of a series of 9 daytrips in august & september 2022 across the Pyrenees. The main goal was to finish my plan to have visited all bordermarkers at least twice. It was also a kind of sentimental farewell journey, visiting old friends and cherished places.
This is daytrip 7.

Today: a nostalgic visit to Hostal de la Muga and redoing bm534-535 as a bycatch

Weather: sunny, warm

Basecamp: camping Verte Rive in St-Laurent-de-Cerdans


track-20220901.kml
(click to open this trip in Google Earth or copy link to Google Maps; click right on this link to download gpx-version). The gps-track has not been manually  corrected which explains the inaccuracy and misalignment at some points. For cartographic backgrounds: see the cartography-page

Gps-waypoints of all bordermarkers (most recent version):
kml:  esfr-bordermarkers-all-waypoints.kml
gpx:  esfr-bordermarkers-all-waypoints.gpx (with elevation added by gpsvisualizer.com)
According to Garmin Basecamp (uncorrected track with elevation added by Gpsvisualizer.com):

Distance: 5,8 km
Max-height: 833m
Min-height: 672m
Elevation: +351m -352m
Total elevation: 703m

Start 14:20  Finish 16:39
Total time: 2:19
From the parking at Pla Castanyer, I descend along the dirtroad.

Keeping right at the first bifork.


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The sign says 'private dead-end road' but there also hiking waymarks: so nothing forbidden here.


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Descending and passing a house


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And this is about the end of the dirtroad, you could park here.


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A yellow waymark


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and this is the end of the dirtroad, arriving at a dry streambed which is the border between bm533 and 534.


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To the right is this gate which gives access to the streambed and


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then you arrive at the ruins of Hostal de la Muga.


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A donkey is curious.


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This is the barn


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and this is the old Hostal itself.

I received in 2014 from Cayetano some information about it:

"Hostal de la Muga which you find mysterious, closed its doors in january 1992. There was also a fountain but now it is dry. The roads leading to it are from the 70ties and before that they needed animals for transportation"


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Hostal de la Muga, the other side.


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And this is a picture of 19-4-2007. the first time I saw Hostal de la Muga.
A big difference with 15 years ago is the abundance now of waymarked trails and waysign-posts


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like this one.


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And this is a peculiar waysign, looks as if it was meant for motorized traffic.


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This is the crossing of the Muga,


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Back and another view of Hostal de la Muga


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Hostal de la Muga with behind it on the hillside a band of rocks.

That is approximately the borderline.


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Now I descend towards La Muga with bm534.

In between this gate to a sort of compound of French houses and villa's.


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Bm534 at the other side of the Muga.

According to information of Charles & Josette Darrieu, the original bm534 was washed away by a flooding on 17 october 1940 and replaced by this one.


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Bm534


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Bm534


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Bm534


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Bm534


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Then proceeding to bm535.

That implies a short steep climb about 10m beyond bm534 and


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arriving at a trail, sometimes vague but in general well to follow above the Muga.


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Bm535 is opposite a house on the other side of La Muga but it might be difficult to distinguish that building.

But I have a gps-waypoint (of course) and that's how I find bm535 after some descending.


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Bm535


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Bm535


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Bm535


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Bm535


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At the other side of the stream, we can see the remnants of a bridge .

This bridge was also washed away by a flooding on 17 october 1940 including the original bm535.


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Bm535


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I return, try in vain a direct route to the dirtroad above (following the same trail but blocked further on by the Muga and a rockwall)  and return via bm534.


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Climbing back to the Hostal, a last view back to bm534.


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Back at Hostal de la Muga


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It might be my last visit to this monument of the impermanence of all things and a selfie is appropiate, I think.


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And to finish my sentimental journey, this is the spot approximately where


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 Jan-Willem Doomen and me camped on 3-4-2008.
Now returning to the car, here crossing the dry streambed which is the border between bm533 and 534.


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A bit further up the road, there is a trail going uphill, including


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a waymark. It is the trail which will bring you to bm533 (if I remember well).

Back to the car and to the camping.


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